The right scrub for me?
How did we manage to demonize such a useful part of the path to glowing skin?
Of course, we are talking about natural, mechanical peeling. I use the term intentionally, as it is a completely domesticated or systemically adopted word in our area and conditioned in SSKJ2. Since I am one of those who are extremely sensitive to language and terminology, it is right to explain to all those like me who doubt the correct use of all sorts of foreign words that in this case it is actually a word that is now also known by the Dictionary of the Slovenian Literary Language.
Peeling literally means: “ removal, peeling of dead, horny cells from the surface of the skin” . It is therefore also a so-called exfoliant (one could shorten it to exfoliant, but the dictionary does not know the latter or we could not find it). At this point, we should mention another term that is completely legitimate to use, but, like many other terms, has gained popularity with globalization and the growth of cosmetics imports from English-speaking areas. Exfoliation is another, slightly more “noble” term for the same effect.
It's important to remember that all of the above terms are doing the same thing. They remove dead skin cells and encourage new ones to come to the surface. This leaves us looking more beautiful, more radiant, and most importantly, more youthful.
Which peeling is suitable for whom and what works better is a matter of debate. We are here to represent the colors of reason. That is why we have decided to use natural cosmetics and draw inspiration from nature for its creation. Not only from flowers, trees and herbs. From human nature, biological processes, biorhythms and everything that happens to our body through the aging process in different parts of the year, day and month (modernly this is called holism) we draw inspiration for a cosmetic application that is meaningful and effective and, above all, safe.
Just as we can always buy a complex dish for which someone has developed a recipe, tested it, made sure that the dish is sustainable and wanted to make some money from their invention, it is roughly the same with such matters. The dish can be tastier than the one you prepare at home, it can be healthier if it takes into account all possible parameters of a healthy and balanced diet, it can be dietary if it is defined and composed as such, or it can be, from all of the above, just tasty, palatable and therefore very desirable.
Remember that we are the voice of reason? So, you can prepare a high-quality peeling at home and it is not necessary to resort to ready-made preparations, because you can achieve a very good effect in a completely natural and simple way. We do not deviate from this statement and stand behind it 100%. Below we explain why classic methods of removing dead cells have a completely unjustified reputation on social networks and elsewhere. You will also find out which historical figure left a very special mark on the topic in question in a very special way ;).
Enzymatic, mechanical, chemical. If you use mechanical exfoliation at home, make sure that the abrasive (particles) you apply to your skin is GENTLE. Which means ground oatmeal, sharp flour, ground herbs after maceration, jojoba beads... Avoid ground walnut shells, for example. By now you probably already get the feeling. The exfoliating particles should not be rough and large so as not to cause micro-damage to the skin, disrupt its protective functions and cause its hypersensitivity. Start once a week, use these products in a cleansing gel or milk, on wet skin, use gentle, circular movements on a small area. Exfoliation does NOT mean rubbing, but an extremely gentle massage. Love your skin, be gentle with it and offer it what it likes.
Start with a weekly frequency and increase to a maximum of 3x per week. Once you have thoroughly washed the particles from the skin, two extremely important steps follow. Moisturize the skin well with a natural moisturizing serum or toner, and wait a minute or two. Then apply a nourishing cream to the skin, which will protect it and help nourish the new cells that have finally breathed.
If you have extremely sensitive skin and would still like to exfoliate, you can use micro-fiber facial cleansing wipes/gloves to remove dead skin cells, or a damp cloth will do the job just as well. Do not rub your face roughly, use gentle circular motions, and you can also apply a natural cleansing milk or lotion to the cloth, which will further help smooth circulation.
For anyone who is flirting with chemical options and is not sure where to start, the best starting point is certainly a method that does not immediately give drastic results (if you are one of those who like the feeling of really clean skin that is velvety and soft to the touch immediately after exfoliation, you can only really achieve this with mechanical exfoliation or a combination) but is gentle and suitable for all skin types and does its job well; exfoliation or peeling with the help of fruit and vegetable enzymes. Usually, these are proteolytic enzymes in extracts of papaya (the enzyme papain), pineapple (the enzyme bromelain) and pumpkin. These break down the proteins that connect dead cells, after which they can be easily removed from the skin.
The method described above has its French and sounding derivative , gommage ! The word comes from the verb “gommer”, which in French means to erase. Sounds nice, doesn't it? Supposedly, it was the last French queen, also an exceptional lover of prestige, beauty tricks and anti-aging rituals, Marie Antoinette, who, with her famous cleansing and exfoliating mask, is responsible for the fact that we are still or once again talking about gommage a lot today.
An increasingly popular form of exfoliation and skin cleansing today was based on the queen's recipe:
- 2 teaspoons cognac (circulation, astringent)
- 1/3 cup powdered milk (cell renewal)
- lemon juice (citric acid - chemical peel)
- 1 egg white (a binder, when it dries, it is peeled off the face along with dead cells and impurities)
Since the recipe has not been tested in our house, we highly recommend that you test the mixture on less delicate parts of your body first!
Today, gommage actually means combined peeling, enzymatic-mechanical. It is a form of (most often) a cream gel or gel that you apply to the skin, leave for 10-15 minutes to dry, and then mechanically remove it from the face with massage movements. You rinse your face afterwards. It is a gentle and really good form of removing impurities and dead cells from the skin. With some knowledge and skill, you can prepare gommage at home, but it is easier to find it in a well-stocked store.
The last form of peeling that we should mention is peeling with AHA, BHA and PHA acids. Our intention is not to rewrite well-known theories from accessible sources (we list some of them at the bottom of the article), but to remind you that even this form of exfoliation, which is often used in natural care rituals, requires caution and good information. Despite the fact that over-the-counter skin care products contain low concentrations of the aforementioned acids, it is extremely important to use such an application sparingly, in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions, and to discuss the appropriateness and method of use with a specialist/dermatologist if possible. In many cases, damage and hypersensitivity occur, and the skin's barrier functions are disrupted precisely with excessive use and inadequate treatment after application. Sensitivity to UV radiation is the first alarm when talking about appropriate care after using acid peelings (AHA and BHA). Don't forget about SPF protection and apply it more often in the colder months, and less often when you are more exposed to the sun.
If you are now wondering whether we advise against chemical peels, our answer is definitely NO. It is definitely worth considering. Not only in this context, exfoliations can also be procedures performed by a qualified health professional, which are properly guided, supervised and effective. It is up to you how you decide to maintain your skin's condition and in what way mitigate the signs of aging. It is only important that you are aware that natural care, well-being, a healthy lifestyle and moderation are the long way to go when it comes to affecting your skin. Of course, there are shortcuts. The decision is yours, and we are here to challenge you a little in these decisions every now and then :).
To beautiful, healthy skin and a look of happiness on your face.
Daria
References and further reading:
- https://www.westlakedermatology.com/blog/chemical-vs-physical-exfoliation/
- https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/exfoliate-face-naturally
- https://www.globenewswire.com/en/news-release/2016/12/13/1234731/0/en/American-Academy-of-Dermatology-How-to-Safely-Exfoliate-at-Home.html
- https://www.researchgate.net/publication/224892687_Skin_Care_with_Herbal_Exfoliants/link/54eb59190cf2a0305193c805/download
- https://practicaldermatology.com/articles/2020-apr/the-effect-of-cleansers-on-the-skin-microbiome
- https://www.scielo.br/j/babt/a/sqJsWgp9PVL9XN3k7R6yT5G/
142 comments
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