Why do we choose hydrolate instead of water as the basis of our formulation at MOIKA?
More than just water: why hydrolates are the heart of our natural cosmetics
In the summer, I start my day early. I go to the eastern part of the estate, where the lemon balm grows. It's still fresh there, there's a scent and anticipation in the air. I pick the lemon balm in the morning, before it starts to bloom. That's when it has the most active ingredients. We carry out the distillation the same day. This way we get a hydrolate, which is not a residue from the production of essential oils, but an independent product that we use in products for sensitive and irritated skin. This is not a poetic scene from an advertising flyer, but the reality that we wake up to at MOIKA in the summer months.
What is a hydrolate?
Hydrosol , also known as floral water, is the aqueous essence of a plant. It contains water-soluble substances such as flavonoids, esters, alcohols and phenolic acids. These active ingredients soothe the skin, help maintain its balance and protect it from oxidative stress. Depending on the plant, hydrosol can have anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, moisturizing or regenerative effects.
How we distill
At MOIKA, we use classic steam distillation, exclusively from fresh plants that we grow ourselves or collect in the pristine nature of our estate. The distillation is carried out within a few hours of harvesting, as the stability of the plant ingredients is crucial. The hot steam releases volatile compounds from the plant tissue, which condense into a valuable liquid in the cooled distiller's tube. The precision and correct sequence of this process are decisive for the quality of the final product.
At MOIKA, we do not distill for the purpose of extracting essential oils, but we adapt the process solely to extracting hydrolates. We use less plant material, pay attention to the temperature, and start the process immediately after harvest. This way, we preserve the most beneficial water-soluble substances. It is not a by-product, but the main purpose. The hydrolates we obtain are rich, aromatic, and active. They reflect the plant and the environment in which it was grown.
When do we distill a particular plant and why?
Lemon balm (Melissa officinalis)
Lemon balm is harvested early in the morning, just before it starts to bloom. This is when it contains the most rosmarinic acid, flavonoids and citral compounds. It is distilled fresh, the same day, to preserve its full therapeutic potential. The hydrolate has a soothing and anti-inflammatory effect, making it excellent for the care of sensitive and stress-reactive skin.
Lemon balm hydrolate is used in:
- Mint balancing water - toner for oily and impure skin
- Mallow - day cream for normal skin
- Floral refreshing water-toner for normal, mature and dry skin
- Rosehip serum
Sage is harvested in early summer, usually in the morning, when the leaves are dry but still aromatic. Partial dryness is even desirable for this plant, as it improves the ratio between essential and water-soluble compounds. At this time, it contains the most ursolic acid, thujone and antioxidant flavonoids. Sage hydrolate has an astringent effect, regulates oiliness and has a mild antiseptic effect, making it ideal for the care of combination skin and for use in natural deodorants.
Sage hydrolate is used in Sage nourishing deodorant.
Mint is most active just before flowering, when the menthol, menthone and flavonoid content is at its peak. It is harvested early in the morning when the leaves are cool and the compounds are stable. It is distilled the same day, at a lower temperature, to preserve its refreshing character. Mint hydrolate has a cooling, toning and antiseptic effect, so it is excellent after sunbathing, after shaving or for irritated skin on hot days.
In which products can you find peppermint hydrosol ?
- Mountain rose - balancing cream for oily and blemished skin
- Mint balancing water - toner for oily and impure skin
- Sage Nourishing Deodorant
Chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile)
Roman chamomile is harvested in full bloom, when the flowers are fully open and aromatically most active. At this time, it contains the most bisabolol, polysaccharides and flavonoids, which have been proven to have anti-inflammatory and soothing effects. Distillation takes place on the same day, for a longer period of time and at lower temperatures. The hydrosol is suitable for sensitive skin, babies, after-shave care and for those prone to redness.
Roman chamomile hydrosol can be found in:
- Chamomile with yarrow - cream for dry and sensitive skin
- Orange cleansing gel
- Calendula cleansing milk
Geranium/Pelargonium (Pelargonium graveolens)
Geranium or pelargonium is harvested during full bloom, when the leaves and flowers are saturated with geraniol, citronellol and linalool. With ingredients that balance the skin and have an anti-inflammatory effect on it. We distill the fresh whole plant, as the synergy between the leaves and flowers is expressed in the full aromatic spectrum. The hydrolate is suitable for sensitive skin, for problems with redness or hormonal fluctuations, which is why it is often used in the care of mature or reactive skin.
Scented geranium hydrosol is an important ingredient in the following products:
- Orange blossom - cream for mature skin with signs of aging
- Mallow - day cream for normal skin
- S hair serum
- Floral refreshing water-toner for normal, mature and dry skin
- Rose Rejuvenating Fluid
- Nourishing loose powder
Sage (Salvia sclarea)
Clary sage reaches its peak aroma just before or at the beginning of flowering. At this time, the leaves and flowers are rich in linalyl acetate, linalool and water-soluble esters, which have a relaxing and calming effect. The plant is harvested in the morning, in dry weather, and gently distilled to preserve its warm herbal-floral character. The hydrolate is especially suitable for evening care and skin support during hormonal fluctuations. Unfortunately, we have only distilled clary sage once in the last two years, as nature took it away from us due to bad weather.
Clary sage hydrolate is used in Metina balancing water-tonic for oily and impure skin.
How do we use hydrolates in skin care?
Hydrosol is a versatile ingredient and finished product. You can use it as a toner after cleansing, for a refreshing touch during the day, to set makeup, or as a compress for irritated skin. In the summer, cool it in the refrigerator and use it after sunbathing. It is also suitable for babies, as it does not contain alcohol or irritants.
Frequently asked questions about hydrolates
> Can I use the hydrosol every day?
Yes. Due to its mild action, it is suitable for daily use, even several times a day.
> Is it suitable for children?
Yes. Hydrosols are safe for children and infants if prepared and fed properly.
> How long does hydrosol last?
When stored properly (in a cool and dark place) up to 6 months after opening.
> What is the difference between a hydrosol and a tonic?
A hydrosol is pure plant water obtained through distillation. A toner is a cosmetic product that can contain several different ingredients, including alcohol.
> How much hydrolate is in our products?
This is a question that too few people ask themselves when understanding natural cosmetics. Often, hydrosols are used simply for fragrance or as a gentle alternative to water, but we go one step further.
For us, hydrosol is often not just an additive, but represents the bulk of the water part of the product. Most of our serums, creams and toners contain 30 to 70 percent hydrosol, and in certain formulations even 100 percent hydrosol base, without a single drop of plain water. We believe that every milliliter counts. If an ingredient takes up so much space, it should have an actual effect.
Why hydrolates and why we say that water is the soul of plants
For MOIKO, hydrosol is not an additive, but a base. We treat each plant with respect. We pick it by hand, distill it gently, immediately after harvest. This preserves its strength and character. Hydrosols are mild, yet effective. They are suitable for even the most sensitive skin. When we include them in a product, we are not just adding an ingredient, but the entire experience of the plant.
Hydrolate as a basis for natural formulations
In most cosmetic products, water has no special function, it is there to fill the space. With us, it is different. Hydrosol is not just a substitute for water, but an active plant extract that has a role and effect. It carries the soothing, moisturizing and regenerative effects of the plant from which it is obtained.
That's why it's not an accident in our products and it's not just for scent. It's the foundation of the formula and an important reason why the skin better absorbs the care ingredients.
If you want care that starts with a plant and not a synthetic formula, I invite you to discover our collection of hydrolates . Each of them has a story that begins in nature and ends in your care ritual.
Until next time,
Daria
45 comments
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