Vitamin C: Kako izbrati pravo obliko za svojo kožo
Vitamin C - močan antioksidant, ki že dolgo velja za ključnega pri podpori našemu telesu, zadnje čase vse bolj sije v ospredje kot zvezda nege kože v (naravni) kozmetiki, ki obljublja anti-age učinke in posvetljevanje kože.
Njegovo drugo ime je askorbinska kislina, saj je to njegova biološko aktivna in hkrati najbolj raziskana oblika. Pa je tudi najboljša?
Pri MOIKI trdno verjamemo v moč narave, vendar hkrati cenimo tudi napredne znanstvene tehnologije, ki nam omogočajo ustvarjanje izdelkov, najboljših za Vas. Zato smo se odločili združiti naravne sestavine z izbranimi laboratorijsko pridobljenimi derivati in s tem ta dva svetova združiti v eno.
Na ta način zagotavljamo, da Vaša koža prejme kar se da najboljše iz obeh svetov in prejme čim več koristi, ki ji vitamin C lahko nudi.
Preden se poglobimo v čudežne lastnosti, ki se skrivajo v tej visoko opevani učinkovini, si na hitro poglejmo, od kod sploh vitamin C izvira.
Zgodovina vitamina C: od pomorščakov do zvezde nege kože
Do 18. stoletja so pomorščaki opazili, da uživanje veliko citrusnih sadežev pomaga preprečevati skorbut (neprijetno bolezen, ki povzroča krvaveče dlesni in druge neprijetne težave kot posledica pomanjkanja vitamina C). Takrat niso imeli pojma, kaj je tisto kar v citrusih pomaga. Šele v tridesetih letih prejšnjega stoletja so znanstveniki uspeli ugotoviti, kaj je vitamin C.
Prav zaradi tega je koristno imeti v telesu in v koži dovolj vitamina C, a trik je v tem, da ga naše telo ne more proizvajati samo (zanimivost: nekatere živali, na primer miš, ga lahko!). Ljudje ga torej moramo v celoti pridobiti iz zunanjih virov. Uživanje veliko sadja in zelenjave, bogate z vitaminom C, bo nedvomno prispevalo k Vaši splošni ravni vitamina C.
Kljub temu pa se ravni vitamina C v koži ne bodo drastično dvignile, saj je njegova absorpcija v kožo iz krvnega obtoka omejena. Torej, ko zaužijete vitamin C s hrano ali prehranskimi dopolnili, se ta absorbira v krvni obtok in porazdeli po telesu. Telo vendarle uravnava njegovo raven in pri določeni ravni se odvečni vitamin C izloči skozi ledvice. Tudi, če zaužijete večje količine vitamina C, to ne pomeni nujno, da bo več vitamina C doseglo Vašo kožo.
A tukaj je dobra novica! Uporaba kreme ali seruma z vitaminom C je pogosto najučinkovitejša za ciljno usmerjene koristi za kožo.
O kakšnih koristih pa pravzaprav govorimo?
Začeli smo torej z opisom vitamina C kot prave super zvezde, ki v Vaši anti-age rutini ne sme manjkati. Da bi izkoristili vse njegove prednosti, pa je potrebno razkriti tudi njegove posebne zahteve.
Prva težava, s katero se srečamo je njegova izjemna nestabilnost – hitro oksidira, če ni pravilno shranjen, kar pomeni, da se lahko kakovost izdelka hitro poslabša. Druga težava nastopi pri absorpciji vitamina C, ki je vodotopen, medtem ko koža raje sprejema olje topne snovi. Da bi se temu izognili, je pomembno izbrati izdelke z nizko pH vrednostjo, ki je pod 3.5 pH, saj so ti bolj stabilni in lahko izboljšajo njegovo penetracijo v kožo. Vendar pa lahko tako nizka pH vrednost poveča tveganje za draženje kože, kar predstavlja še en negativen dejavnik.
Te lastnosti so predvsem značilne za vitamin C, ki se v svoji izolirani obliki imenuje askorbinska kislina. Ime prihaja iz latinske besede »scorbutus«, kar se nanaša na skorbut, na začetku omenjeno bolezen. Ko govorimo o askorbinski kislini, govorimo o biološko aktivni obliki vitamina C, kar pomeni, da je to oblika, ki jo naše telo neposredno prepozna, absorbira in uporabi v fizioloških procesih.
Askorbinska kislina (ascorbic acid)
- Biološko aktivna oblika vitamina C
- Najbolje deluje med koncentracijo 5-20%
- Topna v vodi, formulacije na vodni osnovi
- Precej nestabilna molekula -> bolj stabilna v izdelkih z nizkim pH -> lahko vodi v draženje kože
- Posvetljevanje kože, stimulacija sinteze kolagena
- Zaradi nestabilnosti in nagnjenosti k oksidaciji je neprimerna za večino naravnih kozmetičnih formulacij.
Da bi ohranili prednosti vitamina C, hkrati pa izboljšali njegove manj zaželene lastnosti, so se razvili različni derivati vitamina C.
Ali ste kdaj pomislili, koliko pravzaprav vemo o različnih oblikah vitamina C v kozmetiki in kako le-ta vpliva na njegovo učinkovitost?
Če že kupujemo izdelek z vitaminom C, je dobro vedeti, kaj kupujemo. Prav zato danes z vami delim najpogostejše derivate vitamina C, ki se nahajajo v kozmetiki.
Derivati vitamina C: različne oblike in različne koristi
Magnezijev askorbil fosfat (magnesium ascorbyl phosphate)
- L-askorbinska kislina stabilizirana z magnezijevo soljo -> vodotopna stabilna oblika
- Delno lipofilen in zato bolje penetrira v kožo
- Manjše draženje kože -> primeren za občutljivo kožo
- Zmanjšuje hiperpigmentacije, manj podatkov o zaščiti pred poškodbami UV sevanja
Natrijev askorbil fosfat (sodium ascorbyl phosphate - SAP)
- Slabša penetracija v kožo kot askorbinska kislina
- In vivo (latinski izraz, ki se uporablja za procese, ki potekajo v živem organizmu) študije govorijo o njegovih fotoprotektivnih (antioksidativnih) lastnostih in posvetljevanju kože
- In vitro (latinski izraz, ki se uporablja za procese, ki potekajo v nadzorovanem okolju izven živega organizma) študije kažejo stimulirano sintezo kolagena
- SAP naj bi imel svoje koristi tudi pri koži, nagnjeni k aknam; študija iz leta 2005 je pokazala, da ima 1% SAP močno protimikrobno delovanje proti bakteriji P. acnes, ki povzroča akne
Askorbil palmitat (ascorbyl palmitate)
- Stabilnost podobna askorbinski kislini
- Lipofilna oblika, lažje penetrira v kožo
- Stimulacija sinteze kolagena
- Zaenkrat ni dokazov, da se lahko pretvori v biološko aktivno obliko vitamina C v koži (askorbinska kislina)
Askorbil tetraizopalmitat (ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate)
- Eden najbolj stabilnih derivatov vitamina C
- Lipofilna oblika, lažje penetrira v kožo
- Manjša verjetnost draženja kože
- Zaščita pred poškodbami UV sevanja, stimulacija sinteze kolagena, zmanjšanje hiperpigmentacije
- Primerna za tiste, ki dobro tolerirajo oljne formulacije
Askorbil glukozid (ascorbyl glucoside)
- L-askorbinska kislina stabilizirana z molekulo glukoze
- Izredno stabilna molekula, topna v vodi
- Študije dokazujejo pretvorbo v biološko aktivno obliko vitamina C
- Stimulacija sinteze kolagena, zmanjšanje hiperpigmentacij -> vseeno raziskave manj obsežne
Če ste prišli do tega odstavka, Vas moram pohvaliti - zdaj ste postali pravi ekspert za vitamin C.
Skupaj lahko zaključimo, da so različni derivati vitamina C stabilnejši in manj dražilni za koži, vseeno pa ohranjajo številne koristi tega pomembnega antioksidanta.
Naravna kozmetika z vitaminom C: Prava izbira za Vašo kožo
Ni vse, kar je naravno, samodejno primerno za Vašo kožo. Po drugi strani pa naravna kozmetika vključuje tudi sestavine, ki sicer ne rastejo na drevesu ali kje drugje v naravi. In prav tak primer je vitamin C.
Kot že torej omenjeno, so derivati tako ali drugače laboratorijsko pridobljene sestavine z manj ali bolj zastopanim izvorom v naravi. V naravni kozmetiki jih uporabljamo, da zagotovimo učinkovitost izdelkov na najvišjem, znanstveno podprtem nivoju.
S tem pristopom pri MOIKI ustvarjamo izdelke, pri katerih združujemo naravne sestavine in skrbno izbrane derivate, da Vam ponudimo nego, ki je tako kakovostna kot tudi varna.
Naša inovativna izdelka, Vrtični pomlajevalni fluid in Ričkov oljni serum, sta formulirana z naprednim derivatom vitamina C, ki omogoča boljšo absorpcijo in stabilnost v koži.
Vrtnični pomlajevalni fluid in Ričkov oljni serum vsebujeta askorbil tetraizopalmitat, ki je znan po izjemni sposobnosti absorpcije, prav tako pa se v kožnih celicah zadrži dlje časa kot biološko aktivna oblika vitamina C. Oba izdelka priporočam za uporabo pri anti-age negi, pri kateri želite koži povrniti mladosten sijaj.
Malo bolj primerna za nego aknaste kože pa sta izdelka Gorska roža in Šipkov serum, ki vsebujeta natrijev askorbil fosfat (SAP). Ta priljubljen derivat vitamina C ne le da pomaga pri posvetljevanju kože in spodbuja sintezo kolagena, temveč nudi tudi protimikrobno delovanje in je tako primeren tudi za vse tiste, ki imajo težave z aknami.
Hvala za branje - upam, da ste našli koristne informacije. Se beremo naslednjič!
Lina
- Austria, R., Semenzato, A., Bettero, A. (1997). Stability of vitamin C derivatives in solution and topical formulations. J Pharm Biomed Anal, 15(6):795-801
- Enescu, C. D., Bedford, L. M., Potts, G., & Fahs, F. (2022). A review of topical vitamin C derivatives and their efficacy. Journal of cosmetic dermatology, 21(6), 2349–2359.
- Klock, J., Ikeno, H., Ohmori, K., Nishikawa, T., Vollhardt J., Schehlmann V. (2005). Sodium ascorbyl phosphate shows in vitro and in vivo efficacy in the prevention and treatment of acne vulgaris. Int J Cosmet Sci, 27(3):171-6.
- Pullar, J.M., Car, A.C., Vissers, M.C.M. (2017). The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health. Nutrients, 9(8):866.
- Stamford, N.P. Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivatives. (2012). J Cosmet Dermatol, 11(4):310-7.
Št. komentarjev: 47
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God bless Dr Lucky for the wonderful works he is doing in people’s lives. Both those that referred me to him and those that want to contact this man will find help in his temple. My name is Anita Becky from United Kingdom. I have been healed of herpes (HSV) by Dr Lucky. I didn’t know African herbs are that powerful until I read a testimony online about how Dr Lucky has been helping people with this sickness and curing Herpes disease. His Email: at drluckyherbalcure@gmail.com This man sent me the herbs and within 3 days, I was healed. Without any hesitation, I want to say a big thank you by bringing help to anyone who needs your healing herbs. The hospitals could not cure this sickness and this spell caster could. I would direct all patients to get in touch with this spell caster and you will be helped immediately you click his email. His email once again is drluckyherbalcure@gmail.com and you can Whatsapp/Call his number +2347071651140
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Thanks to Dr. Excellent for saving my marriage. My name is Heather Delaney. I married the love of my life Riley on 10/02/15 and we now have two beautiful girls Abby & Erin, who are conjoined twins, that were born 07/24/16. My husband left me and moved to be with another woman. I felt my life was over and my kids thought they would never see their father again. I tried to be strong just for the kids but I could not control the pains that tormented my heart, my heart was filled with sorrows and pains because I was really in love with my husband. I have tried many options but he did not come back, until i met a friend that directed me to Dr. Excellent a spell caster, who helped me to bring back my husband after 11hours. Me and my husband are living happily together again, This man is powerful, contact Dr. Excellent if you are passing through any difficulty in life or having troubles in your marriage or relationship, he is capable of making things right for you. Here his contact. Call/WhatsApp him at: +2348084273514 "Or email him at: Excellentspellcaster@gmail.com ,For more information visit his website:https://drexcellentspellcaster.godaddysites.com
How to Restore a Broken Relationship and Make him or her regret leaving you and return to you with much love.
Thanks to Dr. Excellent for saving my marriage. My name is Heather Delaney. I married the love of my life Riley on 10/02/15 and we now have two beautiful girls Abby & Erin, who are conjoined twins, that were born 07/24/16. My husband left me and moved to be with another woman. I felt my life was over and my kids thought they would never see their father again. I tried to be strong just for the kids but I could not control the pains that tormented my heart, my heart was filled with sorrows and pains because I was really in love with my husband. I have tried many options but he did not come back, until i met a friend that directed me to Dr. Excellent a spell caster, who helped me to bring back my husband after 11hours. Me and my husband are living happily together again, This man is powerful, contact Dr. Excellent if you are passing through any difficulty in life or having troubles in your marriage or relationship, he is capable of making things right for you. Here his contact. Call/WhatsApp him at: +2348084273514 "Or email him at: Excellentspellcaster@gmail.com ,For more information visit his website:https://drexcellentspellcaster.godaddysites.com
I have been suffering from a deadly disease (Hsv) for the past 2 years now, I had spent a lot of money going from one places to another, from churches to churches, hospitals have been my home every day residence. Constant checks up have been my hobby not until this faithful day, I was searching through the internet, I saw a testimony on how Dr Oyagu helped someone in curing his (Hsv) herpes disease, quickly I copied his email which is oyaguherbalhome@gmail.com just to give him a test I spoke to him, he asked me to do some certain things which I did, he told me that he is going to provide the herbal cure to me, which he did, then he asked me to go for medical checkup after some days after using the herbal cure, behold I was free from the deadly disease, he only asked me to post the testimony through the whole world, faithfully am doing it now, please brothers and sisters, he is great, I owe him in return. if you are having a similar problem just email him on oyaguherbalhome@gmail.com visit his website https://oyaguspellcaster.wixsite.com/oyaguherbalhome Or WhatsApp him via +2348101755322
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Hello Everyone! I’m here to explore blogs and forums about the wonderful and most safe cure for Herpes Simplex Virus(HSV). I was positive to the herpes virus and I lost hope because I was outcast and rejected even by my closest friends. I searched online to know and enquire about a cure for HERPES and I read someone testimony on how she was cured from HSV-2, So I decided to contact the same herbalist because I know that nature has the power to heal everything. I contacted Dr Kham Remedies to know how he can help me and he told me never to worry that he will help me with the natural herbs from God! After 2 days of contacting him, he told me that the cure has been ready and he sent it to me via DHL and it got to me after 3 days! I used the med as he instructed me Twice Daily For Two weeks (MORNING and EVENING) and i was cured! it’s really like a dream but i’m so happy! That’s the reason I decided to also add more comments of Him so that more can be saved just like me and if you need his help, you can email him on dr.khamcaregiver@gmail.com or visit him on website at: https://linktr.ee/doc_kham
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I have had Human Papillomavirus (HPV) for 3 months now. I have searched for cures everywhere. I have spent more money on the disease to make sure that it got cured. I was searching online on Facebook, I got a review on how Dr Lucky cured People with herbs. So I ask him for help and the way he talks to me I believe in the medicine because other people are getting cured completely and I order the medication. I got it and I applied it to this disease. Within 14 days I was cured from the HPV thanks to herbal medication Dr Lucky sent to me. If you need help he will be able to help you get rid of the Diseases, Visit his http://facebook.com/remedyforherpes Dr.Lucky ONCE AGAIN THANK YOU SIR Contact Him WhatsApp Number; +2347071651140 Or Email him at; drluckyherbalcure@gmail.com